Spruced up after a kitchen fire, this cozy Westside hangout just gets better with time. Enjoyable snacks we paired with cool sake included shishito peppers sauteed with lime-infused soy sauce, brown sugar–coated pecan pieces, and bonito flakes; and chicken thigh chunks marinated in ginger and soy with yuzu mayo for dipping. Crudo specials never disappoint, with the buri chile a good example: the silken slices of pinkish-white adult amberjack cut roughly the size of dominoes took of light treatments of seared chile oil and ponzu, with tiny microgreen fluffs atop. Never out of date, the 2022 Roll wraps garlic-laced salmon, avocado, and asparagus beneath a topped of seared king salmon garnished with minced green onion and a garlicky ponzu drizzle.