Turns out that a goldie has long been the owners’ nickname for a glass of Champagne. Building on that sense of fun, Goldie’s has stepped into the former location of RM 12:20. The new occupant welcomes customers into a wood-paneled bar tricked out with red velour booths, a rendering of Goldie Hawn, and quite possibly the swankiest patio in the Lake Highlands neighborhood. We got started with “Moules 20 Frites,” which came with a surprise scoop of luscious gremolata butter and an unfortunate bit of grit (the shells just needed better scrubbing). The accompanying fries, though, were thick and nicely browned. Better yet was the snapper ceviche, freckled with Fresno peppers in a marinade that had everyone requesting a spoon. Mains were a bit hit-or-miss. A very spicy chile crunch threatened to overpower a plate of Magic Chicken Thighs. And the zucchini bucatini relied so heavily on balsamic vinegar that we wished we’d ordered the burger instead. But there were crowd pleasers too. The marinated cucumber salad was lively with contrasting textures (crunchy chickpeas, avocado cream) and the banana split (the only dessert) was a no-holds-barred affair outfitted with brûléed banana slices, macerated strawberries, pistachios, frozen whipped cream, and banana pudding as its base instead of ice cream.