The newest outpost of an Arlington hot spot brings exceptional smoked goodness to a tiny former convenience store on the Near Southside. Among the bountiful platters, El Jefe easily made five meals, thanks to an embarrassment of riches that included peppery, meltingly tender brisket; meaty pork ribs; juicy pulled pork; and sweet, plump pork belly burnt ends. Sides worth writing home about included creamy mac and cheese punctuated by Hatch chiles, crisp green beans slathered in a garlicky chorizo, and dense, textured baked-potato salad.