A remodeled dining room and expanded bar—colorful, modern, and inviting—speak to a new energy that translates well on the palate. Francisco Islas applies his classical training (he cooked at Saint-Emilion for years) to traditional family favorites, delivering an elevated standard of Mexican food. Order this to go: Green pozole, with the requisite garnishes, hits all the right notes, with tender shredded chicken, almost sweet white hominy, and a hint of tomatillo. Among birria choices, we like the torta for its big envelope of telera bread wrapped around juicy shredded beef, melted Oaxaca cheese, cilantro, and onions, with consommé for dipping. Delicate and elegant, trout veracruzana sings with its ranchera sauce punctuated with olives. Pro tip: Just phone in and pick up at the entrance. Then walk next door to the family’s new Islas Tropical for paletas, mangonadas, and strawberries and cream for takeaway desserts.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.