Restaurateur-chef Amy McNutt turned heads two decades ago when she debuted Cowtown’s first vegan restaurant on Magnolia Avenue,  a street that would become the city’s booming restaurant row. Building on Spiral Diner’s unflagging success—and her skill at making omnivores truly like plant-based foods—she has now opened Maiden, a bistro where her vegan creativity reaches new heights. Situated a half block from her landmark diner, this fresh and elegant space is tucked into the eye-popping contemporary complex called PS1200. Settling into a blue velvet booth, two of us spent a leisurely Friday afternoon working our way through a tea service that rivaled any we’ve found in North Texas (McNutt calls it the new brunch). Among the joys of the three-tiered presentation were lovely, savory scones, pimento cheese, smoked-carrot lox, chocolate-topped cream puffs, and lemon tarts. (Our gluten-free friend was just as pleased with her choices.) Of the several tea options, we especially loved the lavender cream black tea and the pink grapefruit hibiscus, so much so that we indulged in second pots. When we return, we have our eye set on the array of dairy-free cheeses, tempura leeks, parsnip fries, and other bar snacks. We intend enjoy our choice with a clever cocktail like the Vespertine (Aquavit, Aperol, lemon juice ginger beer) or perhaps one of the zero-proof concoctions. Four- and eight-course dinner menus, which change with the seasons, include gorgeous dishes disguised as artwork.