As the saying goes, one cannot judge a book by its cover. This is more than true for this unassuming spot in northeast El Paso, named for the signature Korean barbecue dish. Lunch or dinner begins with banchan, “side dishes” of potatoes, broccoli, kimchee, daikon radish—too many to count—to accompany your meal. The kalbi is tender meat on the bone grilled to perfection; it needs nothing more than a side of white rice. The seafood pancake contrasts a crispy outside with tender fresh shrimp and octopus inside.