Deep in the heart of Richardson’s Chinatown is Kirin Court, a 35-year old dim sum institution that’s consistent, efficient, and traditional. On weekends, lazy Susans on white tablecloth-draped banquet tables whir with glistening Beijing ducks. Stacks of bamboo baskets with saucy chicken feet and siu mai (pork-and-shrimp dumplings with red dots of shrimp roe in the center) are carted around the large dining room. While our char siu bao (fluffy barbecue pork buns) and cheung fun (glossy steamed-rice noodle rolls) were just as satisfying as the first time we enjoyed them, it’s Kirin Court’s 150-item à la carte menu where the grandeur of uncorrupted Cantonese cuisine dazzles. Thick noodles with seared beef in redolent XO sauce pacified our noodle craving, and the savory orange chicken with a noticeable amount of diced onions and Thai chilis bore no resemblance to the treacly American dish. The steamed white rice is perfect.
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