Chef Ford Fry, former Houstonian and owner of State of Grace, created this new concept based on fond childhood memories of the now defunct San Jacinto Inn, where seafood and fried chicken suppers reigned. The space is airy and relaxed, with leather tufted booths, white tablecloths, an exposed hearth for roasting oysters, and a handsome bar overlooking a prime patio. The chicken may be the main event, but on our first visit, the best dishes were its bookends. We started with fragrant wood-roasted oysters and a fantastic horseradish-spiked shrimp rémoulade over crisp shredded lettuce. The crawfish toast was perhaps the richest grilled cheese sandwich we’d ever eaten. Alas, the charbroiled Pharmacy Burger was greasy. Ditto the fried chicken, which also was oversalted. However, we relished the spicy and sweet dipping sauces and the petite biscuits that came along for the ride. Delicious soft-serve vanilla ice cream and a side of spiced fresh watermelon ended things on a high note.