Chefs Chris Williams and Sergio Hidalgo bring their cultures and creativity to this new venue in the Ion. In case you’re a newcomer, or just young, the present building was once a major Sears store and late August was the time of year the much-awaited Sears catalog arrived at Houston homes. Now transformed in the Ion, the space houses offices and meeting venues aimed at promoting innovation in the city. Given that background, it seems a fitting place to find innovative fare at modest prices in a pleasant setting: a sleek dining room with rich teal and rust accents augmented by a softly lit bar. Top marks recently went to a hearty gumbo stocked with chorizo and chicken atop white rice with nopales (tart and tasty cactus strips). From the menu’s lighter offerings, we chose very fresh flounder crudo, its slices of snowy white fish aswim in a sweet broth dotted with hazelnuts, shallots, capers, and bits of chile de árbol. The 5 Bean Chili (not the Texas classic) is a huge poblano shell stuffed with beans, sautéed green and red peppers, a lively creole sauce, and red rice, all drizzled with avocado cream. The only pasta on the menu, orecchiette, practically stole the show: small, tender pillows were moistened with pureed greens, wild rice crunch, coconut cream, and a mound of cashew cheese. Expect bright garnishes on your plate, including micro greens, edible flowers, and a sprinkling of seeds—often supplied by the restaurant’s garden. We finished with rice pudding brûlée, a mix of strawberries and blackberries with crisp cornmeal crumble and sweet caramelized sugar. Attentive, knowledgeable service.