The King William corner of South Alamo and Beauregard has seen a slew of interesting tenants over the years, but this is the first time one has made the most of the former gas station, adding a breezy patio, flower-filled window boxes, and cheerful blue-and-white-striped awnings. The menu offers a boatload of fresh seafood and shellfish, which, if the crowds are any indication, has caught on with the neighborhood. Order this to go: red snapper ceviche: with mango, jalapeño, and lime, it’s pure wave wonderful (we just wished for a larger portion). Follow it up with a crab cake topped with avocado crema and bitter greens and a plump lobster roll, the tender meat bathed in a tarragon aioli and celery and onion adding a bit of crunch. Classic, in other words. Pro tip: If you’re feeling celebratory, here’s the place to order a traditional caviar service, with either Russian Ossetra or Royal White sturgeon.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.