Since 1993, this local favorite hot spot, in a century-old building on Camp Bowie’s well-worn red bricks, has pleased a loyal following and simultaneously won new fans. From a menu that’s relatively unchanged through the years, we rediscovered why crowds go nuts for the chicken-fried steak, the fork-tender sirloin encased in a crisp golden-brown jacket and accompanied by fluffy mashers and a small pond of cream gravy. The signature lobster bisque balances rich cream with enough bits of the signature shellfish to keep the texture appealing; the ideal companion may well be the Greek salad, with its tart lemon dressing balanced by salty kalamata olives. A foolproof sharable dish is the searing-hot cast iron skillet of baked goat cheese surrounded by spicy tomato sauce, with garlicky toasted pita crackers for dipping. We noted that at least half the surrounding tables were filled with convivial patrons enjoying giant, icy martinis, a specialty from the busy bar up front.