Ever cheerful, this Camp Bowie–area charmer counts three and four generations of local families among its devoted clientele. A convivial spirit fills the crisp, open spaces, which are accented by wood detail and modern furnishings, along with the agreeable chatter of guests sharing signature starters. One favorite is an order of tempura-fried brussels sprouts; another is smoked pork riblets crusted in feathery furikake. And there are legions of fans of the savory pancake made with noodle, egg, and green onion, topped with a bit of pork belly and accented with teriyaki and Japanese mayo. Lightly fried pieces of cod—accompanied by hand-cut fries dusted in chile spices and served with yuzu-laced tartar sauce—never disappoint. The similar but lighter option of pan-seared, miso-marinated cod served atop sautéed seasonal greens with pickled onions has quickly become a new favorite. From the sushi bar, we cannot resist the Tejas roll, a combination of silken yellowtail with avocado, cucumber, and fried jalapeño, topped with dabs of chile-infused mayo and sriracha and a scattering of chopped scallion. A small but smart wine selection complements a lovely sake list and handful of whiskies from Suntory and Nikka.