When Giovanni Cerone retired, in 2020, locals feared that a beloved downtown Bryan institution, Mr. G’s, would close its doors for good. A family friend, Susan Carnes, came to the rescue, purchasing the restaurant and working alongside Mr. G until his passing a year later. Carnes has maintained the traditional pizzeria staples, even as newer restaurants tout eclectic designer pies. She has also infused new energy into the 28-year-old establishment. On a recent visit, we, like many others in the crowded dining room, ordered the star of the menu: a calzone bigger than an overinflated football. The ritual of slicing the monster with a pizza cutter and watching the subsequent burst of steam rush into the air never gets old, nor do the mouthwatering flavors of mozzarella, pepperoni, and (just slightly sweet) marinara. A helping of homemade tiramisu finishes the meal in Italian style.