This third location of Nick Badovinus’s popular bistro is less than a mile from well-heeled Highland Park. Expect the clubby atmosphere and polished service of the original, plus some  tweaks: lunch service, a patio, and pizzas after 4 p.m. Order carefully, and you can have a great meal.  Badovinus’s trademark spendy steaks are safe bets, but don’t overlook the excellent pan-roasted chicken with delicious jus and creamed potatoes. The Proper French Dip was a pricey disappointment, featuring under-seasoned slices of prime rib (the jus couldn’t save it) on a roll that should have been crisp—but wasn’t. From the raw bar, Hamachi Crudo with fried capers and smoked trout roe was stellar; conversely, Dressed Ahi (tuna) with avocado was oddly bland and missing the promised Fresno peppers. Crispy fries accompany sandwiches, steaks, and  fried fish; boasting pure potato flavor, they’re arguably the best in town. Vegetable enchiladas are terrific, covered with an earthy ancho chile sauce, molten cheddar, and cabbage salad.