Matt McCallister strikes a balance between homey and high-end at this laid-back spot. The wood-paneled dining room evokes a mid-century diner redux, but the menu brings fine-dining flair to everything from roast chicken (it’s served with bone marrow and thyme jus) to pasta (think truffle-topped, with beurre monté). Fermented flavors enhance many dishes too. On our last visit, Spanish mackerel crudo was exquisite, drizzled with satsuma tangerine vinaigrette and topped with crispy leek threads and cucamelon; the tiny portion made sharing awkward, though (date night tension!). A dish of wood-roasted cod was a masterful marriage: butter-based bagna cauda, aerated for a light texture; hints of smoke and lemony tang; and earthy, ember-charred turnips. Tender corona beans also impressed, crowned with puntarelle (the inner stalks of bitter Catalonian chicory) and dressed with warm garlic-parsley vinaigrette. Desserts take a homey turn; the brown butter–sage squash cake was comforting, but the accompanying maple ice cream oddly flavorless.