An air of intimate sophistication fills the space anchoring one corner of downtown’s Midland Tower. Vintage sconces and mid-century chandeliers bathe the room in warmth, while whimsical salt and pepper shakers and a buzzy corner bar keep the mood playful. Local salad greens tossed with roasted brussels sprouts and asparagus, tangy goat cheese, and bright herbal vinaigrette provide a light but vibrant start. Chef Chip Hight’s blackened redfish, thick and lush, has few peers: its treatment with jalapeño oil, salsa verde, and heirloom tomatoes tossed with roasted corn is both simple and seductive. Heartier and equally engaging, the rack of lamb reveals a silken, rosy interior; its earthy quality is enhanced by a garlic demi-glace with lightly roasted carrot, mushroom, and onion. The smart wine list is easily the best in town, as is the whiskey menu served in the expansive basement bar.