Longtime general manager Chris Salvador and former Saint-Emilion chef Mark Hitri recently teamed up to assume ownership, freshening the menu while keeping signature dishes firmly in place at this bastion of proper French dining (bud vases, artfully fanned napkins, snowy white tablecloths, mais oui). The tapenade, a new addition, was a decided success combining artichoke hearts, green olives, and capers atop crostini. But the most swoon-worthy starter was a trio of butters that accompanied a crusty baguette: the French pepper called espelette mingled with lemon in one; roasted garlic married with rosemary in another; and the third found bone marrow bound with foie gras. Impossible to pass up, pommes frites were skinny perfection fried in duck fat, dusted in sea salt, and served with a lovely aioli for dipping. Lush in body and light on the palate, the monkfish stayed juicy within its wrapping of leeks (with black lentils with tarragon butter sauce, baby yellow squash, and heirloom carrots alongside). The signature duck two ways remains a joy, thanks to the pairing of ruby-centered duck breast slices with duck leg confit accompanied by a fig tart and a rich white bean–spinach ragout. The duo of crèmes brûlées played the traditional vanilla version against one fashioned from chocolate ganache for a sublime finish. Salvador’s dual role as sommelier still guarantees expert wine advice.
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New owners bring updated delights and keep the beloved elements magnifique.