The Pak Pao and El Bolero group has installed this sushi-centric restaurant in the building that held its short-lived Wits Steakhouse. The stunning, sleek decor sets it apart from the average sushi spot: elegant, light gray booths and banquettes harmonize with ruby-red chairs and crimson-leafed faux Japanese maples. Given the pulsing club music and the creative cocktails, it seems aimed at a youngish crowd (omakase diners will be thankful for a serene, semiprivate room). Although the prices set high expectations, the food doesn’t rival that of Dallas’s best sushi spots. That said, we liked three of the traditional offerings well enough, specifically the hamachi tiradito (rather thin yellowtail slices with a light ponzu sauce), a spicy tuna roll, and rich bluefin toro sashimi (though the last induced sticker shock, at $36 for three pieces). The even pricier Truffle Lobster Dynamite—touted as a signature roll—lacked finesse. Stuffed with avocado, crab, cucumber, and mushroom, the roll was generous with the lobster but the shellfish took a backseat to eel sauce and truffle aioli. Yummy Lollipops proved to be a riceless roll encasing bluefin tuna, yellowtail, salmon, crab, avocado, and mango in a cucumber wrapper; we couldn’t tease out any of the delicate fish flavors, and the thick, sweet chile dipping sauce only made it more confusing. Our takeaway: Stick to the nigiri sushi, sashimi, simple rolls, and raw oysters, and sip some premium sake.
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Shodo Japanese Kitchen
Variable sushi, creative cocktails, and pulsing club music in a stunning space.