Railings made from old ore cars lead you up to the heavy double doors of this onetime movie palace that served the Terlingua mining community. The screen is long gone, replaced by a huge painting by Stylle Read of cowboys sitting around a campfire. The real fires are in the kitchen, which turns out burgers, pork loin medallions, slabs of salmon, and a mean ribeye topped by superlative grilled mushrooms. Tourists and grizzled locals rub elbows along the well-stocked bar, everyone is smiling, and why not? The weather is beautiful, the music is mellow, the waiters are hustling big platters of food. Even the cow skulls are having a good time.