A warm, contemporary room sets the scene for some intense flavors. And the staffers here are eager to describe traditional dishes and answer questions. Our appetizer of beef suya (a grilled kebab) was exuberantly seasoned and served with crisp onions that brought down the heat. A Scotch egg (a popular snack in Nigeria) was spot-on: hard-boiled, wrapped in sausage, and fried. Two traditional soups, gbegiri, made with honey beans, and ewedu, with jute leaves, were mild and subtle and best sopped up with handfuls fufu (bouncy, breadlike pounded yam). Jollof rice (spicy and smoky) and coconut with plantains were garnished with sautéed greens. The only thing we wouldn’t order again was the rubbery snails.