In a remarkable move, Chris Williams of Lucille’s has retrofitted the historic Eldorado Ballroom in the Third Ward—once the “Cotton Club” of Houston—with a cafe/bistro, a grocery store selling fresh local produce, an art gallery serving the community, and a renovated ballroom upstairs. It’s a remarkable piece of work, and it should be celebrated. The cafe is a light and spacious place, staffed with cheerful people dishing up healthy food “centering on the palates of people who make up its long-standing community.” Hot sausage or chicken rolls, tacos, or quiche are good choices for breakfast; lunch includes generous sandwiches and gumbos, expansive salads, oxtail smash burgers, fried green tomatoes, and remarkable PLK 1848 ice cream. The excellent coffee is good anytime. Our pimento grilled cheese was gooey and when dipped in the accompanying green gumbo quickly became perfection. A spicy turkey melt was a bit dry but was helped along by some aioli. Sides of house-made chips, kale salad, and Texas caviar all satisfied.