This always bustling Midtown restaurant combines an Italian-centered menu with an inventive bar and one of the best bakeries in town. Pizzas and pastas are excellent, there are plenty of inventive small plates, and the large plates are big enough to share. Order this to go: the spatchcock poussin. The delicious little splayed and roasted chicken was tender and moist, and we fought over the accompanying green beans. Rich ribeye meatballs with a Calabrian pepper ragù proved quickly addictive. Our fine finish? Luscious bread pudding with whipped cream and caramel. Alas, neither the Margherita pizza, which we normally love, nor the grilled escarole traveled well. Pro tip: Look for bargains at happy hour.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.