Contemporary rustic—warm woods, shiplap and brick, modern lighting—sets a pleasing stage for fine Chinese fare, particularly the heavenly dumplings. Divine indeed are the xiao long bao, delicate steamed shrimp and pork soup dumplings. Also stellar, the jasmine tea–smoked duck, which arrives crispy-skinned and sliced, to be nestled into super-thin steamed flour wraps with cucumber and scallion matchsticks and a house-made duck sauce. The okra salad did not disappoint: vivid green okra cooked al dente, halved, sprinkled with bits of Thai chile, and served in a light and spicy peppercorn vinegar broth. Alas, service was erratic, and our much-anticipated pan-fried pork dumplings never arrived.