The co-chef of now-shuttered Pass & Provisions, Terrence Gallivan, is back with his own place. The menu at his pint-size eatery near Midtown is concise, with crudos, starters, and pizzas. Choose from six pies—thin with puffy, blistered edges and minimal toppings. For example, our guanciale (like bacon, but gamier) pizza with Parmesan sauce and red onions was skimpy on ingredients, although tasty. The mushroom number was just right—piping hot from the oven with smoked maitake, rosemary, tomato sauce, and a whisper of garlic. We’re eyeing the pistachio pesto pizza with mortadella for next time. Spicy cucumbers were a cool and crunchy start; garnishes of toasted peanuts, fresh mint and fried onion quelled the burn. Of the two crudos we tried, the smoked kampachi with pumpkin seeds trumped the beautifully plated (yet very salty) cured salmon option, but expect many enticing choices. Housed in a charming bungalow with a small bar, seating is tight, and the music is loud, but there’s lots of covered patio seating. Desserts are fun—ask for two spoons and dig into the maraschino soft-serve ice cream draped in dark chocolate.
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Elro Pizza + Crudo
Inventive pizzas and enticing crudos in a cute bungalow setting.