Inside this cheerful “Mexico City Bistro,” housed in a former Montrose corner grocery, the bright interior matches the brilliance of the salsas, and all join under playful murals depicting our city. Crunchy Tacos Chelo, taquitos filled with potatoes and topped with cotija cheese and raw onions, arrive with a knockout green sauce and pair perfectly with a margarita. Las Tres Damas are three queso fresco enchiladas served with red, green, and creamy corn salsas. The aptly named Gorditas de Chicharrón Prensado were both fiery and subtle, their masa packed with pork belly, onions, and cilantro. And a 150-year-old family recipe, Asado de Res Doña Julia, was a rich, vinegary, meaty stew with perhaps the best black beans we’ve ever tasted. The only clinker in the meal was a too heavy “five leches” cake. Never mind, Cuchara is a big player in Houston’s Mexican food scene.