The latest restaurant helmed by chef Matt McCallister (formerly of FT33 and Homewood) is a casual and affordable Mexican-inspired concept in the West Village shopping area. Earthy tones in the decor are given a jolt of color in the artwork and hot pink chairs. The eclectic menu leans into healthy food, including bowls and other plant-based dishes but also features grass-fed beef plus poultry and seafood. Instead of complimentary chips and salsa, we were greeted with earthy-sweet marinated golden beets dusted with turmeric and black pepper—a pleasant change. (Chips with three salsas are $8). A tasty starter of pan-fried Heart Cakes—chopped hearts of palm bound with almond flour and spices—resembled crab cakes and came with a mild salsa veracruzano and sliced avocado. Rainbow trout—a crispy-skinned filet in a delicious pipián (green mole)—was great, but our carne asada, made with grass-fed beef, needed salt. Don’t miss the restaurant’s superb, flavor-packed sides: green beans with cashew crema and peanut salsa macha; wonderfully charred roasted sweet potato chunks with cultured brown butter, agave, lime, and gingered pumpkin seeds; and well-seasoned refried lentils. Brisket tacos—corn tortillas loaded with shredded lean brisket, topped with mild mixed-pepper rajas—had lots of beefy flavor, but we longed for a squeeze of lime, or perhaps a spicy condiment, to liven them up a bit.
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Contemporary Mexican cuisine from a well-known chef in the heart of Dallas.