With a decided nod to classic Cajun-inspired fare, this hip and historic eastside locale offers an open and airy space from morning breakfast to late-night dinner. The guy in charge is barbecue guru Aaron Franklin, who—with a little help from his friends—turned the old sports bar (founded 1949) around. We noshed on tasty smoked-trout dip served with spicy Zapp’s Cajun dill potato chips and enjoyed a chilled shrimp cocktail. Savory and rich chicken and sausage gumbo was on point, as was a grilled ribeye served with a pat of herbed butter and a side of crisp and salty fries. Patties on the double cheeseburger were a little thick and missing the crispy exterior that makes all the difference, but the fried shrimp in the po-boy (on a proper Leidenheimer roll) were plump and crunchy. Don’t overlook one of the creamy “freeze” beverages. We opted for a sweet and silky Cherries Jubilee as well as a nutty chicory-chocolate for the ride home. The place is often packed, so come early (no reservations are taken).