It’s hard to miss the apt name of chef Mark Bliss’s glamorous Southtown restaurant. Yes, the food is that good and the space is that celebratory, with winter months sure to feature an outdoor fire pit as well as seasonal dishes that warm the heart. Small plates set the tone here, whether you opt for the house-made charcuterie, a bite of seared octopus, or a chicken-fried-oyster slider. Texas red snapper with a squid ink and shrimp risotto was one recent entrée of note, as was the duck three ways: foie gras, breast, and confit, with brussels sprouts to balance all that richness. Excellent service (and wine list). Reservations recommended.