The best spot in this cacophonous modern house is right at the corner of the sushi bar, where the chefs welcome you as one of their own and yell out orders to each other in Japanese like a military platoon. Daily specials are always the first temptation. We opted for splendid kinmedai sashimi (bathed in a savory onion oil and adorned with sweet grapes) as well as a lighter version of French vichyssoise made with daikon and served with a dollop of tangy miso-eggplant compote. Of course no visit is complete without a few pieces of sushi, like the fresh scallop with lemon or the Japanese sea bream with shiso leaf, lemon zest, and Maldon salt or the often overlooked avocado with yuzukosho and tamari. We finished with olive gelato made savory with sprinkles of thyme, tart with fresh lemon curd, and sweet with crunchy cocoa nibs and chocolate ganache.