Eat! They Said
In the game of Where To Eat When on the Road, the surprises behind doors 1, 2, and 3 really aren’t surprises at all. There’s your standard please-drive-forward-and-pick-up-at-the-window hamburger, your country-kitchen chicken-fried steak (which is sometimes simply shoe leather slopped with gravy), and your Italian bread salad with feta cheese. Okay, so maybe the last one isn’t all that standard—unless you’re fortunate enough to be traveling down U.S. 290 through Dripping Springs. That’s where you’ll find, in the limestone-walled, tin-roofed former home of Hamburger Hill, an ambitious new venture named Roscoe’s. We started with a skewer of teriyaki-splashed grilled shrimp atop a bed of leafy greens, which maintained a modicum of road-food charm by arriving in a basket lined with parchment paper, and then proceeded to one of the evening’s specials: a thick pork chop stuffed with spinach, mushrooms, shallots, and asiago cheese (thank heaven this entrée was served on a plate not made of paper). The crown jewel of this spot is its deli case stocked with the likes of stuffed peppers, meatballs the size of baseballs, and yes, Italian bread salad, available to go or to eat on the spot. And die-hard traditionalists shouldn’t worry, because Roscoe’s also has burgers, sandwiches, and salads, plus catfish on Fridays and the venerable CFS on Saturdays.