José R. Ralat, Contributor at Texas Monthly

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José R. Ralat is Texas Monthly's taco editor, writing about tacos and Mexican food. He is the author of American Tacos: A History & Guide. Ralat has written for Eater, Imbibe, Dallas Observer, D Magazine, Vice, Cowboys & Indians magazine, Gravy, and other national and regional online and print media outlets. Ralat is also a member of the National Association of Hispanic Journalists and serves on the advisory board of Foodways Texas. In 2022, he won a James Beard award for his Tex-Mexplainer column.

296 Articles

Javier Treviño at his studio, on November 15, 2023.

December 8, 2023

Guayaberas Gone Wild

It may look as if San Antonio’s Javier Treviño is revolutionizing the traditional shirt, but he’s only making the most of the freedom it’s always represented.

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Birria in Aguascalientes

December 6, 2023

The Amazing Birria of the Great Mexican City You’ve Probably Never Heard Of

Aside from its many cultural attractions, Aguascalientes is known for dishes like birria de borrego, bolillo con crema, and lechon tacos.

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An interior dining room at El Charlatan.

November 29, 2023

Young Restaurants Close All the Time—But This Recent Loss in El Paso Really Stings

Two-year-old El Charlatan in El Paso was a James Beard semifinalist and one of the best restaurants in the state, according to our taco editor. But that didn’t stop it from falling to the typical foibles of new restaurants.

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San Antonio Taco Trail

November 22, 2023

The San Antonio Taco Trail

This Tex-Mex wonderland of a city has some of the best taquerias in the state.

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Baskets of guisados at Kingwood Taco Shop.

November 14, 2023

A Shared Faith Led Two Taqueros to Honor God With Guisados

The beginnings of Kingwood Taco Shop in Houston were a matter of divine timing, and, years later, the taqueria’s guisado tacos still taste heavenly.

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Aguachile featuring shrimp in a charred habanero emulsion, served with corn tortillas.

Tex-Mexplainer|

November 13, 2023

Meet Aguachile, Ceviche’s Hotter Cousin

Don’t take aguachile’s lightness for weakness. The spicy dish packs a punch.

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Clockwise from left: tacos, frijoles, loaded papa asada, mulitas, and chiles cabrones at Tacos al Carbón Cabrón.

November 2, 2023

Meet the “Badass” Husband-and-Wife Team Behind This New San Antonio Taqueria

Even Wemby stopped by Tacos al Carbón Cabrón for its carne asada tacos. But the restaurant offers so much more than the typical Alamo City fare.

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October 26, 2023

My Midlife Crisis Is Getting Taco Tattoos

Or, really, any tattoos relating to the Mexican culinary experience. Now that I’ve gotten inked eleven times in nine months, I’m wondering why this form of self-expression is calling to me.

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texmexplainer taqueria colors

Tex-Mexplainer|

October 18, 2023

Red, White, and Covered in Salsa: How Two Colors Came to Dominate Taquerias

You can thank an internationally famous soda brand and psychology for the classic red-and-white design of your favorite taco spots.

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Tacos de trompo and bistic at Tacos Vitali.

October 11, 2023

A New San Antonio Taqueria Misses the Mark When It Comes to Tacos de Trompo

Tacos Vitali, which has two locations in the Alamo City, is the talk of the town, but it didn’t live up to the hype on my multiple visits.

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Laredo Taco Trail

September 28, 2023

The Laredo Taco Trail

The border city has its share of troubles, but it also has a fascinating taco history that includes “mariachis” and the original barbecued brisket taco.

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Most of the tacos at Fish Company Taco.

September 21, 2023

When Hurricane Harvey Took Everything, a Houston Chef Turned to the Gulf and Opened a Taqueria

Dayatra Myers runs Fish Company Taco in Galveston, where the menu items rotate based on the availability of the fish, which leads to fresh and creative options.

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Why Recipes Should Be Specific About Tortillas

September 14, 2023

“You Shouldn’t Just Throw Anything on Whatever”: Why Recipes Should Be Specific About Tortillas

When working from a recipe, home cooks should have more guidance than just flour or corn. There’s a whole world of tortillas that matter.

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Tex-Mexplainer|

September 8, 2023

Mexican Sushi Is Rolling Across the Border

After Japanese laborers emigrated to Mexico in the nineteenth century, a culinary merger eventually resulted in nori stuffed with carne asada.

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Six Must-Try Taquerias and Restaurants in Puebla, Mexico

September 5, 2023

Six Must-Try Taquerias and Restaurants in Puebla, Mexico

Order tacos árabes, cemitas, and chiles en nogada in this central Mexico city. Hurry for the last dish: You have two weeks before it goes out of season.

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Tex-Mexplainer: Aguas Frescas

Tex-Mexplainer|

August 31, 2023

Aguas Frescas Will Get You Through a Brutal Summer

Whether it’s creamy horchata or cooling cucumber, the various flavors of this sweet, refreshing drink act as potable air-conditioning.

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The Latest List of “Best Taco Cities in America” Sucks. Here’s Why.

August 24, 2023

The Latest List of “Best Taco Cities in America” Sucks. Here’s Why.

The baffling ranking published by a real estate company has dubious data-gathering methods and eyebrow-raising results, with Austin as number one.

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A spread of dishes and drinks at Veracruz Fonda.

August 22, 2023

Veracruz All Natural Moves Beyond Breakfast Tacos at Its New Full-service Restaurant

Offering aguas frescas, picadas, full plates, and conchas, Veracruz Fonda, in Austin, is what the brand should’ve been all along.

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The Nearly Forgotten History of the Viral Smashburger Taco

August 15, 2023

The Nearly Forgotten History of the Viral Smash-Burger Taco

You’ve likely seen videos of the Big Mac–taco hybrid on social media, but the dish isn’t a newfangled fad—it has roots going back to the early 1900s.

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Oaxaca downtown

Travel & Outdoors|

August 10, 2023

Oaxaca Is More Than Mezcal and Mole

How to weave your way through this magical Mexican destination.

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A taco spread with salsa at Tacos El Andaluz.

August 10, 2023

This Busy RGV Taqueria Features Specialties From Mexico City and Spain

Order the gaonera (ribeye) taco or the cochinita pibil taco—just don’t linger too long at busy McAllen restaurant Tacos El Andaluz.

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Find True Mexico City-style Tacos in This Dallas Gas Station

August 2, 2023

Find True Mexico City–Style Tacos in This Dallas Gas Station

Neza York Con Todo, near south Oak Cliff, offers many Mexico City specialties, such as suadero cooked in a choricera and steamed cow head.

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An Allsup's beef & bean burrito.

July 28, 2023

What Makes the Allsup’s Burrito So Legendary?

It’s small-town Texas’s go-to convenience store snack. Texas Monthly’s taco editor finally gives it a go.

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The pastrami, butter chicken, and smoked barbacoa tacos at Pachuco's.

July 20, 2023

Pachuco Culture and His Late Brother Inspire This Permian Basin Taquero

Ruben Carrasco Jr. serves Indian- and Korean-inspired tacos at his popular Midland spot Pachuco's, which he credits to an old PBS show and his little brother's adventurous nature.

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Six Mexican Hot Dogs to Try This Summer

July 3, 2023

Six Mexican Hot Dogs to Try This Summer

Frankfurter season is here and what better way to indulge than with Mexican regional variations on the dish, which are often wrapped in bacon and topped with carne asada.

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This Taquero Infuses Creativity Into His Barbecue Tacos and Concha Burger

June 29, 2023

Meet the Borderland Taquero Doubling Down on the Concha Burger

Luis Lara of Proyecto Humo has often felt like his ideas were too big for Laredo, but they’re exactly what the city needs.

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Tex-Mexplainer: Guisados

Tex-Mexplainer|

June 13, 2023

Defining ‘Guisado’ Is Just as Messy as the Dish Itself

While the term is most commonly translated as ”stew,” it's not wholly accurate. Guisados are more of a feeling of warmth and family.

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Tourists from Colorado shopping at Sew Bonita, in Corpus Christi.

Style & Design|

June 8, 2023

This Popular Corpus Christi Gift Shop Is a Celebration of Latino Culture

Sew Bonita owner Elena Flores curates her store with makers from across Texas and beyond.

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The Birria-Landia truck on Roosevelt Avenue in Queens 4.

June 5, 2023

The Texan’s Guide to New York Tacos

Yes, there are excellent tacos in New York City, and you don’t even have to search hard to find ’em. Here are a dozen spots to try.

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A taco spread at El Tiger Taqueria.

June 1, 2023

Inspired by His Luchador Father, This Taquero Serves Dishes That Pack a Punch

At El Tiger Taqueria, in El Paso, Jorge Ortiz offers his take on border food, which includes suadero flautas topped with bonito flakes and seaweed.

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Despite Immense Pain, the Folks Behind Warrior Taco Serve Joyful Fry Bread

May 23, 2023

Despite Immense Pain, the Folks Behind Warrior Taco Serve Joyful Fry Bread

Jennifer Scharen and her family serve marvelous versions of the Native American dish at their Pittsburg trailer in honor of her late husband.

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Olmos-Bbq-Fort-Worth-tray-tacos-sausage-brisket

May 16, 2023

This Barbecue Pop-up Prides Itself on Its Stellar Tacos

Olmos Bbq, in Fort Worth, offers traditional brisket, sausage, and ribs, but pitmaster-taquero John Paul Govea knows it’s “the tacos that hit.”

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Two San Taco Plates at San Taco.

May 10, 2023

Taste a Dozen Guisados at This San Antonio Taco Joint

San Taco specializes in the comforting stews and braises, offering them on plates or by the pound alongside fresh tortillas.

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An order of burritos at Alfonso's Breakfast Burritos.

May 2, 2023

West Texas and South Texas Meet at This New Burrito Joint

Alfonso’s Breakfast Burritos in Duncanville, just outside Dallas, is already a local hit with comforting guisados wrapped in freshly made flour tortillas.

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Rosa's Kitchen food truck.

April 25, 2023

Faith and Perseverance Drive This San Antonio Taco Truck

The women of Rosa's Kitchen have faced difficulty on the road to making their breakfast taco spot a success, but the challenges just make them work harder for their community.

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Customers at Ramen Del Barrio.

April 20, 2023

Ramen Del Barrio Is a Chef’s Love Letter to His Mexican Upbringing

Christopher Krinsky—a 24-year-old who grew up in the U.S. and Mexico and worked in Japanese restaurants—combines his influences in his Austin ramen counter.

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Jimenez Tortilleria y Taqueria in Lubbock.

April 13, 2023

These Hearty West Texas Tacos Will Take the Edge Off a Hangover

Jiménez Tortilleria y Taqueria in Lubbock separates itself from the local pack by offering tacos filled with guisados and topped with fried eggs.

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Blue Beetle Belongs in El Paso

April 4, 2023

‘Blue Beetle’ Belongs in El Paso, No Matter What DC Brass Thinks

A new trailer reveals that the Mexican American superhero will live in a fictional city, breaking with canon. Comic book fans are not happy.

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Tex-Mexplainer-Barbacoa

Tex-Mexplainer|

April 4, 2023

A Head Above: How Barbacoa Paved the Way for Barbecue

Whether using lamb, beef, or goat, the cooking method of barbacoa is rooted in pre-Hispanic traditions and set the scene for smoking meat as we know it stateside.

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March 28, 2023

A German Taqueria Is Leading Europe’s New Taco Revolution

Berlin’s Taqueria El Oso honors Mexican cuisine with its suadero and tripas tacos, and, luckily, it’s just one of the continent’s stellar taco joints.

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The original Chili's after a remodel along Greenville Avenue.

March 20, 2023

Despite Its National Appeal, Chili’s Is a Dallas Restaurant Through and Through

Sure, the restaurant chain was founded in Dallas and is currently headquartered there—but the concept also embraces the Dallas identity.

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Bone Marrow Tacos from Taco Shop in El Paso.

March 15, 2023

Kangaroo in Your Taco? “Why Not?” Says This Adventurous El Paso Restaurant

Taco Shop in El Paso has featured kangaroo, turtle, and alligator on its menu. While some are turned off by the game, many more customers line up to try them.

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LaToya Larkin of Black Girl Tamales.

March 8, 2023

This Tamale Company Infuses Its Popular Dish With Soul Food Flavors

Houston-based Black Girl Tamales' offerings include steamed masa filled with collard greens, oxtail, dirty rice, and shrimp.

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Jimmy Carter’s Peanut-and-Egg Taco Made Quite the Impression on San Antonians

February 28, 2023

Jimmy Carter’s Peanut-and-Egg Taco Made Quite the Impression on San Antonians

A local restauranteur created the dish to honor Carter's election, and it was just one instance of the importance of Mexican food in the former president's public life.

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February 23, 2023

Gen Z’s Homemade Tortillas Could Use an Upgrade

According to recent data, the youth love the commodity corn flour that's been around since 1949. But there are other options to explore.

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La Cocinita McAllen

February 16, 2023

The Tacos at This South Texas Restaurant Are Inspired by the Taquero’s International Travels

La Cocinita’s Evin Garcia invokes tastes of southern Africa and the Iberian Peninsula in his McAllen eatery while also serving his community.

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Taco-trails-rio-grande-valley-taco-all-vapor-monterrey

February 9, 2023

The Rio Grande Valley Taco Trail

Where to find the region's specialties, from mammoth breakfast tacos to old-school barbacoa.

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Crispy dogs from Ray’s Drive Inn.

February 6, 2023

How the Crispy Dog Became San Antonio’s Signature Snack

Invented by grandmas and popularized by drive-ins, the cheese-filled, tortilla-wrapped frank is a nostalgic treat that's disappearing from menus.

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February 2, 2023

We Asked ChatGPT to Define a Taco. Here’s What It Said.

The AI-powered chatbot has been making headlines recently, so we hit it with our hardest taco-related questions to test its mettle.

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The Stand Up Desk|

January 27, 2023

An Author Believed Elon Musk Would Benefit Brownsville. Not Anymore.

National Book Award finalist Domingo Martinez was optimistic about Musk and SpaceX in 2016. Now, he says, “it feels like we sold our souls.”

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