The vintage cowboy photos and cow skulls adorning this lively spot give a nod to old Texas. But the short menu leans all-American, save for an excellent tangy ceviche; think bar snacks like onion dip and steak tartare and classic entrées like “Club Spaghetti” and “Hot Beef,” a peppery New York strip we paired with crispy fries (the juicy meat was cooked perfectly to order, with a well-seared peppercorn-studded crust). The Crispy Chicken Sandwich arrived piping hot, the pounded, fried breast adorned with a Calabrian chile slaw (a little light on the chile). The no-reservations policy landed us at the handsome bar, where we felt welcomed into the club.