All the King’s Men
The recent reopening of the landmark Queen movie theater marks the pinnacle of downtown Bryan’s resurrection. Along with this renovated venue comes the need for quick, pre-show dining spots. In 2012 Aaron and Stephanie Curs claimed the sliver of space on the theater’s north side for their popular Proudest Monkey burger and taco bar. This new venture flanks the theater’s south side, providing a much-needed barbecue option. In terms of meat, ATKM sticks to the basics, offering brisket, turkey, sausage, and chopped beef. We found the turkey tasty (if a bit on the salty side), but we were carried away with the brisket: the beef combined the kind of tenderness and smoky flavor that points to the skill of a true pitmaster. Sides included twists on the standards, with such offerings as Gouda mac and cheese and dill potato salad. We were drawn to the jicama apple slaw but found the vinegar too overwhelming. We had better luck with the creamy Havarti grits. For those who would rather grab a drink after the show than dinner beforehand, the restaurant also offers an impressive beer and bourbon selection.