Dining Guide

Barbaro

Pub-inspired Barbaro (hex tile, rough-hewn tables, open rafters) is a bit more civilized than the name implies, but it certainly embraces the rabble with a robust happy hour, a cocktail menu of interest (including non-alcoholic egg creams and phosphates), and pizza flavor mash-ups designed to shake the walls. For instance: roasted cauliflower, currants, capers, and melted red onion. Or Taleggio, hash browns, kale, and honey. The puck-size eggplant Parmesan is a wonder of crisp crunch, tender eggplant, and fiery arrabiata sauce, but the arugula salad—yellowed greens and not much else—was a miss this time. A congenial staff and good vibes keep the Monte Vista neighborhood denizens happy, but Barbaro is worth an invasion for those farther afield.