Opened in 1947, this time-tested stalwart in the Stockyards National Historic District has had few ownership changes but none as significant as the latest. In partnership with TV’s mega-producer-director and Fort Worth native Taylor Sheridan, the new owners are investing $3 million in a slow renovation that neither disrupts business nor brings wholesale changes. Our recent dinner visit found a tweaked menu that left favorite dishes intact but gently massaged. To wit, the bone-in New York strip (along with the porterhouse and bone-in ribeye) is a dry-aged USDA Prime Angus cut from Sheridan’s Four Sixes Ranch  near Guthrie, northwest of Fort Worth. Its supple texture emboldened with flavor from the aged, seasoned grate over the charcoal fire (still on display in the main dining room), this steak will stay in our memory a long time. Old-fashioned touches like the set-up of three baked potato condiments remain, and the horseradish mashed potatoes remain in place. Among steak toppers are the expected béarnaise and cognac-peppercorn as well as a new chile arbol sauce. Giant hand-battered onion rings still have that wow factor, bringing a sense of reassurance, as do walls covered with enormous faded photos of fifties-era stock show cattle champions. Cocktail updates include frozen hibiscus margaritas and a pleasing zero-proof spicy margarita that subs celery juice for tequila and involves agave, jalapeño, lime juice, and spicy Tajín. Watch for a big makeover of private dining spaces in the basement, the addition of an outdoor patio, and subtle updates to the dining rooms.