The remodeled and rechristened Four Seasons downstairs dining room, defined by dark woods and bold black stripes à la abstract expressionist Franz Kline, is a huge improvement over outdated Trio. (But, upstairs, the lively bar has been stripped of its fabulous stone fireplace and rock-crystal chandelier—we’re in mourning.) As for chefs James Flowers and Richard Sandoval’s menu, it’s approachable, eclectic, and showy (many Mexican accents, a touch of Korean and Peruvian here, a little French there). A sampling found a tidy trio of flaky empanadas, filled with sweet corn and Spanish manchego cheese, rounded out with dabs of Argentina’s herbal chimichurri. Best dish of the evening: a superlative beef rib on the bone sided by both corn tortillas (so-so) and flour tortillas (good) with assorted side salsas. For dessert, we tried the gorgeously presented olive oil panna cotta, oddly thick, accompanied by a strange salty chocolate custard and bitter nibbles of poached pear (ambitious, perhaps overly so). If you have time for a holiday indulgence, weekend brunch here is a lovely treat.
Cuisine: New American