“Eclectic with a vengeance” is the watchword at this spacious grill room with white paneling, bright upholstery, and firewood stacked in niches. We quite liked our chilled grilled-vegetable salad (carrots, squash, peanuts, and coconut curry) and were satisfied if not bowled over by a slightly sinewy bone-in ribeye with a robust, herbal chimichurri. There’s a whole roasted chicken for comfort-food types and a kale paneer with curry-tinged cream for explorers. Best nibble: fluffy homemade tots sided by aerated Gruyère. The service is absolutely top-notch.
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The Fairmont’s new steak and everything house doesn’t want to be pigeonholed.