Sadly, the smoked trout that was a fixture on Warren Clark’s menu is gone, but there’s plenty more to choose from. The lamb fries on a previous visit were mild, and fried in a crisp batter. Coupled with cocktail sauce they could have passed for tail-less shrimp. Another appetizer is a plate full of rib ends. These aren’t rib tips from a spare rib, but rather the end bones from either end of a rack of St. Louis ribs. The smoke and spice is more intense, but they also get pretty dry. Some were revived with just a dunk into the sauce, but others needed to marinate a while.
Method: Hickory in a gas-fired rotisserie
Pitmaster: James Hilliard and Steve Gressett
In 1974 Warren Clark opened a little barbecue shack in Tioga, Texas, and it didn’t take long before it became the darling of food critics, chefs and celebrities. In 1989, Alan Richman, then writing for People, claimed “Clark produces the best barbecue in Texas, which is something to brag about.” Dallas chef Dean Fearing became a …