Another cool import from Austin has arrived in Houston’s Montrose, and the foodies are swarming. We loved the covered patio seating options, with sunny yellow awnings, lots of white painted surfaces, and a breezeway mimicking a Maine coastal retreat. The intimate interior is upbeat, with a small bar, booth or table seating, and—unforgivably—deafening music. We started with a spanking-fresh crudo assortment of salmon, tuna, hamachi, and more (raw bar options also include fresh oysters and clams from the top regions). The crab Louie iceberg salad with peppery Thousand Island dressing was tasty—and would have been even better with more lump crabmeat. Instead of going with a nice but predictable catch of the day like redfish on the half shell, we netted pan-roasted barrel fish with a spicy smoked-paprika vinaigrette. Although unfamiliar to us, the buttery-tasting Gulf Coast swimmer turned out to be an instant new favorite. A side of wood-grilled Brussels sprouts in honey vinaigrette burst with flavor even though they were decidedly undercooked (better than overcooked, we grant you). Everyone at the table agreed that the evening’s best dish was the sumptuous Maine lobster roll served with drawn butter and sided by a tower of addictive skinny fries.
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Clark’s Oyster Bar
Fresh seafood in a room with Maine coastal touches.