The pickleball craze lands with surprisingly sophisticated food midway between the Cultural District and TCU. But you don’t have to play the game to enjoy time sipping and grazing. We shared an order of Ranchero Fries—crispy frites tossed with pickled jalapeños, queso fresco, and chipotle aioli—for starters, then nearly swooned over the Power Bowl of quinoa, tomato, cucumber, carrot, feta, harissa, and parsley-mint vinaigrette topped by a juicy piece of perfectly grilled salmon. Our only quibble was the overcooked sirloin in the steak frites, but the lush chimichurri made up for the sin, as did Ranch Waters on tap and the Blood Orange Rickey, hinting of elderflower.