Chef Cameron West makes fried chicken a celebratory repast in a renovated mid-century store in the newly vibrant downtown. Bone-in chicken with flaky, golden crust doesn’t get any better. Beautiful spears of fresh okra in crunchy crusts are a must, as is just-spicy-enough collards. The best surprise: plump, icy-cold oysters on the half shell that come with a perfectly piquant mignonette. Ample creativity is poured into the cocktail program as well.