On our last visit we opted for happy hour, sampling items at the horseshoe-shaped bar. First came a gratis plate of hot, fragrant breads, one roll with a bit of charred eggplant and the other rosemary—we almost stopped there, it was so heavenly. Onward, though, to a pretty tuna tartare with ginger emulsion, radish, avocado, and soy “pearls.” We also liked our beef kebab with tahini, chickpeas, grilled tomato, and onions. Two other shared plates and we were totally satisfied: a tomato salad—four preparations of multicolored tomatoes with greens, egg yolk, and feta—and a Jerusalem salad with roasted cauliflower, shallots, tomato salsa, and sour cream. Nary a steak, though they are also first-rate.