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Dining Guide

Doris Metropolitan

Cured red snapper with pickled berries.
Photograph by John Davidson

Can an Israeli steakhouse by way of New Orleans and Costa Rica add anything to our rather crowded field of bastions of beef? Based on a recent visit to this inviting place (in the old Triniti digs), yes. Great warm breads, including olive and pesto focaccias, made a welcoming start, followed by a spectacular salad that featured a huge beet filled with various cheeses and pistachios. Wow—we had thought there was nothing new left to be found on the beet beat! We saved room for the luscious and literal “Falls off the Bone” short rib with smoked-tomato jus. An order of the crisp fries amply fed our foursome. The solo fish dish proved to be the sole disappointment: snapper that came overcooked and oversalted. We would like to see more reasonably priced wines on the list.

City: Houston

Cuisine:

Drinks: Bar

Price: $$$$

Rating: ★★

Address: 2815 S. Shepherd Dr., Houston, TX, 77098

Hours: D 7 days.

Phone: 713-485-0466

Website: https://dorismetropolitan.com/

Last updated: January 23, 2018