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Dining Guide

Doris Metropolitan

Cured red snapper with pickled berries.
Photograph by John Davidson

This local link in an Israeli-based chain serves steaks that rank among the finest in town, and thankfully they hold up well on the trip from restaurant to home. Order this to go: Fish to go is often an iffy proposition, but Doris’s Moroccan fish, a snow-white filet topped with a lively but not overbearing tomato sauce, tastes fine even reheated the next day. Steaks come table-ready or sous-vide; we chose the latter and finished our slab of tenderloin to pink perfection on the grill. Our short rib on a long bone, at rest on a root vegetable puree, was juicy and tender, with a strong hit of rosemary. The tomato salad makes a nice starter, with its jumble of brightly colored heirloom tomatoes, some charred, dotted with soft feta cheese. Pro tip: On Friday and Saturday, place your order by 5. Set dinners for two or four are available.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.

City: Houston

Cuisine:

Drinks: Bar

Price: $$$

Rating: ★★★

Address: 2815 S. Shepherd Dr., Houston, TX, 77098

Hours: L & D Tue–Sat.

Phone: 713-485-0466

Website: dorismetropolitan.com

Last updated: November 1, 2020