A second act for the former Boiler Nine site in the old Seaholm Power Plant, this grand restaurant advertises “live fire cooking with Latin flair,” powered by its much-touted Josper, a charcoal-fueled grill-oven combo, and its Puerto Rican chef, María Mercedes Grubb. After a smoky sotol cocktail sweetened with agave nectar and corn tortillas served with both whipped tallow and butter, a starter of salpicón de pulpo—octopus salad with avocado, tomato, and charred salsa—was a delight, as was the shrimp scampi, the orange-hued critters in a buttery sauce infused with morita chiles and slivers of garlic. The accompanying flatbread, crispy from the Josper flat top, was billowy inside, the better to soak up the sauce. Scallops, arriving with crunchy roasted corn and creamy smoked corn mousse, were divine, and we had no qualms about the slices of tender filet mignon amped by a birria sauce (although we found the pick-your-own-steak-knife option a little gimmicky).
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Playing with fire to great effect in the old Seaholm Power Plant.
A fancy Spanish-made stove fuels an inspired menu of steaks and seafood, along with some glorious masa dishes.