This pretty place in Uptown is so very French, with both traditional and seasonal menus and outside tables. Inside are a couple of dining rooms; if you seek quiet, ask for the wine room. Almost every recent dish pleased our picky group, from the deep, rich onion soup in a broad bowl with a floating, pancake-size Gruyère crouton to a juicy heirloom tomato salad with creamy burrata cheese, black olives, and basil pesto. Main courses included tender veal sweetbreads with potato mousseline, brussels sprouts, carrots, and a morel sauce and filet au poivre, eight ounces of beef drizzled with cognac sauce and served with a huge cone of crisp, hot, slender fries. Though the butternut squash mousseline sauce on a seared salmon seemed too sweet to us, we couldn’t fault the sweetness of an apple tart with ice cream and caramel sauce.