We recently divided our selections between “La Tradition” and “La Saison,” the classic and more contemporary sections of the menu. Results were mixed: escargots seemed a bit oily and the onion soup good but not a knockout. The mussels marinière, plump and plentiful in a lovely broth, nevertheless did not all open (which should have been caught in the kitchen). That old French standby, coq au vin, easily came off as the winner, its four pieces of chicken beautifully braised in red wine with pommes mousseline and vegetables. From La Saison we liked our heirloom tomato salad with burrata and black olives, though a lobster salad with avocado seemed a bit short on flavor. Expect crowds, able service, good wines, and a pretty setting with banquettes and tables.