From the folks behind Emmer & Rye comes a highly original eatery inspired by Israeli street food. The lively, high-ceilinged room is tricked out with paper lanterns painted to mimic graffiti, and the sound of happy customers caroms off the walls. The smashed cucumber salad flecked with black nigella seeds was a sensation, the fresh tomato salad made the best of summer’s harvest, and the lamb-and-beef kofta with roasted eggplant was something we hope to be eating year-round. Just one caution: the kitchen loves assertive bitter and sour flavors, and more than a few elements (like the amba, a pickled mango sauce that comes with the falafel) reflect that preference. A thoughtful wine list heavy on Greek whites, such as Limnio and Assyrtiko, adds to the experience.