The domed, white-tiled, wood-burning oven is once again cranking out Neapolitan pizzas after a hiatus and a relocation. Still on the east side, in an old laundromat, the new digs are as small as before, but a patio space is forthcoming. Until then expect a wait for the main draw: excellent pies whose crusts are bubbly and billowy, with a subtle tang. As for the rest of the menu, Grae Nonas, an original founding chef of Olamaie and lately of Le Cowboy, has joined the team and is no doubt responsible for the satisfying pasta dishes. Creamy stracciatella cheese, punctuated by salt-cured olives and fresh wedges of orange, was bright and novel, while meaty roasted mushrooms bathed in a light vinaigrette were just the right match for a glass of Grenache blanc. (The wine list—or shall we say book—is full of treasures.) A dense chocolate mousse, under the weight of several inches of whipped cream, benefited from a touch of salt and drizzle of olive oil.