Strike up a conversation about great barbecue in Waco, and chances are you’ll have more than one local pointing you to Phillip and Yvette Helberg’s joint in Woodway, just northwest of town. The couple upgraded from a food truck to a large and simply adorned space that features picnic tables and a familial vibe. We ordered the Quarterback mixed-meat plate, and while the brisket was beautiful, we found ourselves focused on the pork steak, the smoked chicken (also fried for extra-crispy skin), and the toothsome sausages. The highlights among the side dishes were the smoked-cheddar-and-Gouda mac and cheese and the collard greens. A family-recipe banana pudding was decadently creamy—we would have gone back for more if we hadn’t already stuffed ourselves silly.
Method: Post oak; offset smoker
Pitmaster: Candace Daniels, 29; David Ferlet, 48; Phillip Helberg, 27
Pro-tip: Helberg offers daily specials such as a whole rack of ribs and the popular “bacon wings” (pork belly burnt ends that are flash-fried and sauced to order).
At a food truck in Waco, married pitmasters offer unusual takes on Texas barbecue, like a pesto-stuffed smoked turkey breast.