Strike up a conversation about great barbecue in Waco, and chances are you’ll have more than one local pointing you to Phillip and Yvette Helberg’s joint in Woodway, just northwest of town. The couple upgraded from a food truck to a large and simply adorned space that features picnic tables and a familial vibe. We ordered the Quarterback mixed-meat plate, and while the brisket was beautiful, we found ourselves focused on the pork steak, the smoked chicken (also fried for extra-crispy skin), and the toothsome sausages. The highlights among the side dishes were the smoked-cheddar-and-Gouda mac and cheese and the collard greens. A family-recipe banana pudding was decadently creamy—we would have gone back for more if we hadn’t already stuffed ourselves silly.