Mix traditional fare with modern treatments, add a heap of gusto, and you get this wildly popular taverna. Come with someone you like, because these dishes are meant to be shared, such as bite-size beef-and-lamb meatballs in a creamy lemon sauce. For a forkful of flavors, try the grilled octopus atop cracked roasted potatoes with tapenade and charred halloumi cheese sandwiched between. Ask for advice in navigating the excellent all-Greek wine list.