After a three-year run of weekly sold-out pop-up brunch events, former cooking teachers Sarah Hooton and Matt Mobley have opened a proper cafe in a renovated South Main Village machine shop. Greatest hits include starters like crunchy hush puppies filled with pimento cheese and dipped in a spicy ranchlike dressing and deviled eggs made with sour cream and topped with fiery Cheetos dust. But the focus remains on their monster biscuits, barely browned at the edges yet tender and fluffy within, lovely spread with just whipped butter tinged with sea salt and delicious seasonal fruit jam. Those beauties provide the framework for a prize sandwich called the Dolly Parton: sugar cane–brined chicken breast fried (they nail the crispy crust) and topped with cheddar cheese and sausage gravy. Stars among the sides are the butter-braised green beans cooked with ham hock and the tater tot casserole enriched with yellow cheese and green onion. Sarah’s signature buttermilk pie is gilding the lily but hard to resist.